Drywall repair sometimes can be a DIY type of project. There are holes that are so small the homeowner could take care of them him/herself if they desire to put the physical effort in.
If the drywall hole is small, you can buy a wire mesh patch sold in small sizes, which you can place over the hole. In addition, you will need mesh tape to apply at the seams between the wire mesh plaster patch and the existing wall or ceiling surface. If the drywall hole is large, you will need to obtain a piece of drywall 1/2" or 5/8's thick, depending on the thickness of your existing board, cut a square piece a little larger then the hole itself, place the drywall piece over the hole, mark around it with a pencil, and then cut out the squared hole. Next, cut two pieces of strapping larger than the hole and screw the pieces inside the hole with drywall screws so that you will be able to screw the new piece of drywall patch in place onto the strappings. The next step would be apply the mesh tape at the seams along with 2 coats of spackle/mud with a putty knife at a width of about 8-10 inches to blend in with the existing surface. Make it as smooth as you can, wait for it to dry and sand it before you apply a textured finish to match the existing finish or keep it smooth to have it ready to prime and paint. In summary:
Drywall repair can be extremely messy, especially when you need to sand. So, before you do anything, cover and protect the work area. If you don't want to deal with the mess, hire a professional plasterer to handle it for you. Contact Boston Plastering for assistance. Boston - MetroWest - Worcester - South Shore - North Shore
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"How to fix drywall" may be a popular search question because it seems like the repair is super simple. For a professional drywaller or plasterer, yes, it's very simple. But one of the things customers tend to forget about is the mess involved with any simple repair, especially plaster or drywall repair.
Drywall does not normally crack across the board itself, instead, it usually cracks along the seams or close to the seams between the each board. How simple it is to really repair drywall? It can become simple with practice. However, for starters, simply applying spackle (or "mud" as commonly called), does not do any good. One needs to locate where the strappings or studs are and screw the boards along the cracks and in an appropriate manner. Then, a mesh tape needs to be applied, we prefer the pink heavy duty mesh tape, which is not cheap, but helps prevent cracks even further. Then, apply 2-3 coats of mud properly, with an 8-10 inch drywall putty knife and at least 16 inches wide, to prevent bumps and to blend in with the surrounding surfaces. It needs to be as smooth as possible because you will need to wait for it to dry to then be able to sand it into a fully smooth finish. If the existing surrounding finish is textured, then you would apply a textured finish to match with the old finish on your wall or ceiling. In summary:
As a reminder, drywall repair can be very messy, especially when sanding. So, make sure you cover and protect the work area before doing anything else. If you don't want to deal with the mess, contact a professional plasterer to take care of the problem for you. Contact Boston Plastering to assist you. Boston - MetroWest - Worcester - South Shore - North Shore Why You Should Not Plaster Your Ceilings With a Textured Finish Begin by hanging the 1/2 finished drywall, wallboard, blueboard, sheetrock, or plasterboard on the walls and ceilings. Some cities may only have 5/8 or double 5/8 boards for the ceiling. If there are any apartments above, you must screw the plasterboard on the ceiling with at least 5 to 6 screws in each strip. Only 4 to 5 screws per strip are necessary for the walls. Hang the drywall or plasterboard on the ceiling first, and then the walls after. That will make plastering over the cracks on angles easier. When hanging the drywall or plasterboard on the walls, be sure to cut the whole drywall over the doors and windows. Using small pieces can cause cracks in the future. Tape the drywall or plasterboard joints starting with the flat parts of the board. Then place the two pieces together and tape them at an angle. By Frank C. It is not an easy task, but the end result is worth the effort. The first step is the demolition of the walls and ceilings. The wood work is generally strong steel, and does not need to be disturbed. If insulation against the weather is desired, the insulation is placed inside the walls at this point. This can also help to muffle sounds, but will not make the room sound proof. We will discuss sound proofing with other projects at a later time if desired.
By Frank C. Use the base coat plaster product to plaster the walls and ceilings joints, and then wait until the base coat plaster dries. The optimum wait time is approximately 12 hours. However, waiting that long is not essential. You may begin plastering between 40 to 90 minutes, as soon as the base coat plaster hardens. During the final plaster coat, the veneer plaster should not be mixed more then 1 bag ½ per plasterer. It will dry fast and can be very hard to work with. A professional plasterer will need some time to complete the skim coating with one smooth coat finish.
The veneer plaster work does not have to be sanded before painting! By Frank C. |