Begin by hanging the 1/2 finished drywall, wallboard, blueboard, sheetrock, or plasterboard on the walls and ceilings. Some cities may only have 5/8 or double 5/8 boards for the ceiling. If there are any apartments above, you must screw the plasterboard on the ceiling with at least 5 to 6 screws in each strip. Only 4 to 5 screws per strip are necessary for the walls. Hang the drywall or plasterboard on the ceiling first, and then the walls after. That will make plastering over the cracks on angles easier. When hanging the drywall or plasterboard on the walls, be sure to cut the whole drywall over the doors and windows. Using small pieces can cause cracks in the future. Tape the drywall or plasterboard joints starting with the flat parts of the board. Then place the two pieces together and tape them at an angle.

​By Frank C.

It is not an easy task, but the end result is worth the effort. The first step is the demolition of the walls and ceilings. The wood work is generally strong steel, and does not need to be disturbed. If insulation against the weather is desired, the insulation is placed inside the walls at this point. This can also help to muffle sounds, but will not make the room sound proof. We will discuss sound proofing with other projects at a later time if desired.

​By Frank C.

Use the base coat plaster product to plaster the walls and ceilings joints, and then wait until the base coat plaster dries. The optimum wait time is approximately 12 hours. However, waiting that long is not essential. You may begin plastering between 40 to 90 minutes, as soon as the base coat plaster hardens. During the final plaster coat, the veneer plaster should not be mixed more then 1 bag ½ per plasterer. It will dry fast and can be very hard to work with. A professional plasterer will need some time to complete the skim coating with one smooth coat finish.

The veneer plaster work does not have to be sanded before painting!

By Frank C.